Colin Butters, 5 June 2022, 17hrs 22min

Mourne 500 report by Colin Butters.  A solo round on Sunday 05 June 2022

The Basics

  • Date: Sunday 5 June 2022
  • Start: 03:33
  • Finish: 20:55
  • Time 17Hrs 22 Mins
  • Route: ‘UTMB’ route starting & finishing at Ott car park.
  • Weather: Calm and mild, sometimes warm but mainly overcast, cloud and mist on higher ground until well through the round. (after Commedagh)

The Details

I had originally hoped to attempt this in May, but something seemed to crop up each weekend, and I was unable to commit, however with the long bank holiday weekend in June, I thought I should be able to get out and give it a go, and have some recovery time.

So, spent Saturday preparing food and equipment for the attempt, and then had an early night and set the alarm for 2am. Coffee and toast at home, and then a quick drive down to Ott Carpark at that time of day. After a little more breakfast, last gear check, and making sure head torches were operational, I set off up Slievenamuck just after 3:30am to the cacophony of early birdsong sounding a bit like demented R2D2 droids!

The early tops pass quickly enough, over the two tops of Cock Mountain, and on to Pigeon, the light brightening, but just dim enough for me not to pick out the path up to Pigeon, and doing a bit more in the bog than was needed.

Looking west while traveling between the two tops of Pigeon, I realized that all of the next tops were still in heavy cloud and mist, and was apprehensive of finding the route between Shanlieve and Finlieve in those conditions. By the time I was at Pigeon South, the cloud had lifted off of Slievemoughanmore, and I was rewarded with a great view of a lenticular cloud formation about the mountain, illuminated in the pink glow of the early morning light.

I continued on over Eagle to Shanlieve, and was relieved that the summit was clear, and I had a view to pick my way through the peak hags towards Finlieve. Sadly it was not to last - half way across I found myself in heavy mist, and visibility and pace was greatly reduced! Was glad to find the familiar gravelly section before the rise to Finlieve, and the gulley that the path follows to reassure me I was on the right spot.

The compass had to be used to descend off Finlieve, with very limited visibility, heading towards the red Moss river, and then below Slievebug until I was out of the cloud. Two pairs of Stonechats escorted me from there down to Sandy Brae, each ensuring I was off their territory. I then tramped along the tarmac before heading up Slieve Binnian from the South. I was back in cloud well below the East Summit, but not really a problem here, as the route is clear.  I continued over then other Binnian tops, and ticked off the following summits, refilling the water bottles between Cove and Beg.

I missed the start of the path down the Annalong Buttress towards Rocky, so continued on the brandy Pad, and down the East side of the wall to Rocky. I seemed to get a decent line through the long heather up to Spences Mountain, but then the mist slowed me down picking the route up to Chimney rock. I then lost the path completely on my descent, and ended up quite deep in the bog of Donard at times before crossing the Bloody Bridge River, and contouring round to one of the old Quarries on the south slope of Donard, where I stopped for some food in one of the stone huts.

From there it was on to Crossone, again just below the cloud level, which made picking the route through the rocky sections up to Donard challenging, but I think I got lucky, and avoided any really bad sections, and popped out at the wall just below the summit, to a surprisingly deserted Donard Summit for quarter to two on a Sunday afternoon.

Down to the saddle, and then up to Commedagh, staying close to the wall in the cloud before heading out to the summit, and then down the ridge to Shan Slieve. On the return I contoured round a little too low in the mist, and found myself on the steeper slopes at the top of the Pot of Legawherry, but decided to continue along the available sheep tracks, and was rewarded with a close encounter with a hare, that eyed me curiously for a moment, before descending far more nimbly than I could ever hope to.

I continued along the ridge - I had a first twinge of cramp while crossing the wall to head to the North Slievenaglogh top, so I just sat on the wall for a while enjoying the views while it passed.

In my mind Bearnagh was the last real climb of the day, so I took it nice and slowly, and it seemed to pass quickly enough. I detoured up to the Tor of the East top, and then to the wall corner at the summit, before descending down the heathery slope and then contouring to the style. I chose to cross the style, and ascend Meelmore on the outside of the wall, and realized this was a good choice as I was able to take on some much needed water at the spring there.  From Meelmore, it was over Meelbeg and on to Loughshannagh.

While I had convinced myself that completing Bearnagh was the last major challenge, from the summit of Loughshannagh Ben Crom looked a dauntingly long way, and I knew the ground was not easy. I decided on a direct descent towards the start of the Ben Crom river, with the intention of following the river and then striking back up towards Crom, but once near the river found some relatively decent ground that I could maintain my height on, and so headed directly towards the summit until I found a real path to the summit. I descended to the river on the way to Doan, keeping as much height as I could. I stopped to refill the water bottles in the stream, and on crouching down, the legs seized with cramp! I straightened both legs out, and lay back on a flattish boulder in the flow, and leant over to fill the bottles - I lay like this for a short while, and could easily have drifted to sleep in the evening sun.

I roused myself, and headed on to Doan, the summit seeming more of a scramble than usual - perhaps the route selection, or more likely the tiring legs and mind.

From Doan, it was back to the wall between Loughshannagh and Carn, which I then followed along to Muck without incident, the legs still moving well enough. Muck South looked further away than I remembered too, but the nice soft grassy descent made it easy enough. I returned over the summit of Muck (extra 500m peak!), and followed the wall until the sharp bend, from where I started to descend and contour to Ott mountain. I took the descent directly towards the carpark, taking it easy, as the last time I had come down this way I had fallen in a stinking bog just short of the car, and did not want to repeat that! I made it back to the carpark at 8:55pm, 17hrs and 22 mins after leaving, and feeling better than I expected to.

After a change of clothes, and devouring a flask of coffee and about a pound of mini sausages I started the drive back to Newtownards - A truly unsupported round!

On reflection I enjoyed the day - there were times when it seemed daunting, especially when you are on your own, but there were no times when I felt totally exhausted or defeated. My primary target was to complete in less than the 20hrs for the UTMB challenge, but I had estimated 18:30hrs from my recces of parts of the round, and other visits to the Mournes. I was therefore very happy to beat this by over an hour.

The misty conditions certainly slowed me down on some of the earlier sections, but I think this also helped me maintain pace later in the day. The cloud also kept the heat at bay for most of the day, which was also a benefit.

I think the next time I will plan my own route, with the priority to avoid any sections on tarmac, as it was the least inspiring bit, and also the worst on the joints!

Thanks to Rick for the maintaining the website, and for the initial encouragement when I indicated I might give it a go!

Lenticular Clouds over Moughanmore - with the clouds still heavy on Eagle!